Machine for trimming hat-brim curls



(No Model.) 4'Sheets- -Sheet l.

l.LfBIGELoW MACHINE P08 TRIMMING HAT BMM GURL'S.

No. 817,288. Patented May 5, 1885.

7 W 8c3/888'@ Y @y N. PETERS Pnomumugrapher, washingwm u. C.

(N o Model.) 4 Sheets-'Sheet 2.

l 1 J. BIGELOW.

MACHINE FORTRIMMING HAT BRM GURLS. N0. 317,286.

Patented May 5, 1885.

FIG,

N, PETERS. Phaxouxhcgnnlmr. washington D4 C.

(No Model.) sheets-sheet a.

" J. BIGELOW.

MACHINE POR TRIMMING HAT BRIM GURLS.

No. 317,286. Patent-ed May '5, 1885.

n 'El if" 2 (No Model.) 4 sheetssmet 4. J. BIGELOW.

MACHINE POR TRIMMING HAT BRIM GURLS.

Patented May 5, 1885.

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Unire STATES PATIENT @Erica JOHN BIGELCVW, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

MACHINE FOR TRllVll/IING HAT-BRilVl CURLS.

PECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No.3l7,286, dated May 5, 1885.

Application filed March G, 1855. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that l, JOHN BrGnLow. a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, have invented certain Improvements inlllachinesfor Trimming Hat-Brim Curls, of which the 'following is a specification.

The object of my invention is to automatically trim the curls of hat-brims to a regular outline after they have been shaped and set, and while they remain in shape preparatory to being bound; and this object I attain principally by causing the hat itself to determine the depth or line of cut or trimming, and also by allowing a tilting motion to the hat in the direction of its length, all as fully described and claimed hereinafter.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a vertical section of my improved machine in the form in which I prefer to construct it. Fig. 2 is a front elevation of the same. Fig. 3 is a vertical section of the head of the machine drawn to an enlarged scale. Fig. 4 is a front View of the same. Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the curved foot for supporting the curl of the brim. Fig. 6 is a perspective View of the preferred form of cutter and cutter-holder. Fig. 7 is a perspective view of a slotted guide-plate. Fig. 8 is a similar view of the movable gage. Fig. 9 isa plan view of the pattern-cam. Figs. l0 and ll are views of a modified form of trimming device which may be used. Fig. l2 is a view of another form of trimmer. Fig. 13 is a view of a modication, illustrating how motion may be imparted to the patterncam and hat-carrier from the cutter-operating mechanism. Fig. 14 is an enlarged sectional View illustrating the use of the metallic formers to support the curl during the trimming, in place of the fixed supporting-foot. Fig. l5 is a view of a modication. Figs. 16 'and 17 are views of different forms of an attachment for the machine, and Fig. 1S is a View of another modified form of machine.

The preferred form ot' trimming mechanism Will be most readily understood by reference to Figs. 3 and fl and a brief description of the parts there shown.

A is a portion of the xed frame of the machine, to which is secured the head A. Piv- Oted to the latter is a cutter-arm, B', carrying at its outer end a vertical cutting-tool, B. A short reciprocating movement is imparted to this cutter-arm by an eccentric or crank, d, on

a rotary shaft, D, through the medium of a link, I).

E is a pattern-cam mounted on a rotary camshaft, E, and adapted to act on a movable arm, F, carrying at its upper end the adjustable gage F, the gage-arm being kept up in contact with the cam by a spring, j', or other suitable retractor. lhe upper end of the gage Fis guided in a slotted arm, G, Fig. 7, bolted to the head of the frame, and having, besides Ythe elongated slot g for the said plate, an opening, g', for the free passage of the cutter B.

To an overhanging portion of the head A is secured the curved supporting-foot H, which has its tip extending to one side, as shown in Figs. et and 5, so as to bring it immediately under the cutter and guide-plate Gand in line with the gage.

The hat to be trim1ned,and which has had its brim shaped and set to the desired outline, is applied with the curl of the brim over the tip ol' the foot H, as illustrated in Fig. 3, and is traversed around below the cutter, as hereinafter described, while its outer edge is held up in contact with the gage F'. The cam E, however, in conjunction with the spring f, moves the arm and gageplate inand out,and so causes the curl to be cut of varying width, according to the form of the cam, while the hat is so turned in concert with the cam as to cut the curl to the desired regular outline, in most cases widest at the sides of the hat and nar rowest at the brows, as the character of the hat and fashion may dictate. To insure this regularity of outline, the hat is mounted on a holder which turns the hat in precise accord with the movement of the cam, which varies the depth of cut. The holder illustrated in the drawings is a hat-block, M, carried by a vertical stem, m, in a movable frame, K, this stem being so geared or connected to the camshaft that the two always move, in accord, the construction of devices shown in Figs. l and 2 being preferred.

lThe vertical cam-shaft E', which is free to turn in its bearings in the frame A, carries at its lower end a pinion, e, gearing into a pinion, t', on a short shaft, I, in bearings in the base-plate A2. This shaft I is connected through a rod, J, and two universal joints, j j', to a hollow shaft or sleeve, J', -mounted in bearings in the swinging frame K, which is forked at its lower end and pivoted to the frame in line with the lower universal joint, j, of the transmitting shaft and rod. This pivoted or swinging frame is preferably provided with a counterweighted arm, K', or spring or equivalent device, to tend to bring the upper end of the frame K up to the stationary frame A, the line of mevement being in the same plane with the movement of the gage-arm F. In this sleeve J is mounted the stem m of the hat-.block llI, aY set-screw, m', which passesY through a vertical slot in the sleeve J and enters the stem, serving to secure the hatblock M at the desired height with relation to the trimming devices.

As the object of my invention is to trim the curl ofthe hat-brim while it is in a set and shaped condition, I so mount the hat as to allow of a tipping or tilting motion being imparted to it in the direction of the length of the hat, in order that the shaped hat,with its dipping brows and upward curves on the sides, may accommodate itself to the various positions in feeding past a fixed cutting-point. For this purpose I mount the block on ahorizontal pivot, m2, on its stem m, this pivoting center being preferably in line with the highest point of the curved sides of the hat-brim.

The construction of the hat-block itself it is not necessary to illustrate or describe in detail, as it maybe of any well-known or suitable construction, provided it is so connected to its stemor carrier as to be free Vto havethe described tilting movement. V

The gear-wheels i and e may be of the same size; but I prefer to make the wheelz' twice the size of the pinion c, as in that case the form of the cam E will be simpler-that is, singlemaking two revolutions for one revolution of the hat. This is permissible, since one half of the hat-brim is simply a duplicate of the other.

This patterncam may have any desired contour, according to the required shape of the curl. It may be shaped to trim the curl in a flattened oval, with its greatest width at the sides and narrowest at the brows, or vice versa, or in any irregular outline desired.

The pattern-cam can be adjusted verticallyr on the shaft E', and secured in position after adjustment by a set-screw, e, having its point adapted to enter a key-seat in the vertical shaft E. The gage-arm F being pivoted to the frame at f this adjustment of the cam on its shaft will consequently increase or diminish theeXtent-cf movement imparted to the arm and its gage-plate by the cam. When the longest radius of the cam is acting on the arm F, the inner face of the said arm is parallel with the shaft E', so that the adjustment of the cam on its shaft will not affect the depth of cut at the brows of t-he hat, which at that position of the cam are being trimmed.

The gage plate- F' has a narrow rounded edge, as shown in Fig. 8, and is adjustable on its carrying-arm F by having a mounted screwpivot, f, while a retaining-screw,f3, passing through a segmental slot in the plate, allows of the freeing of the plate to insert the hatbrim over the foot H for trimming and for removal.

The guide-bar G is rounded at its outer end on the under side, and projects slightly over the point of the foot. and acts as au upper guide for the curl of the brim while following the movements of the gage-plate. This arm maybe made rigid or yielding vertically. If rigid, it is set sufficiently' above the foot to allow of the passage of the felt of the hat. Ii yielding, it may act as a presser-foot.

If desired, a liat spring may be combined with the guide-plate and foot, as indicated at G in Fig. to its work.

Instead of having a foot, H, which is fixed to the frame of the machine, for the cuttingtool to act against, I may dispense with this foot and make use of the metallic formers or curls which have been used to curl the brim, as describedfor instance, in the patent ot' Kelsey, June 27, 1882, No. 260,298. In such cases these formers P are simply left in place under the curl, as shown in Fig. 14, until the trimming is completed.

In some instances, where the felt of the hat is somewhat soft, I may make use of a pair of blocks, O, carriedby a spring-yoke, O', Fig. 16, or a hinged and adjustable yoke, O2, Fig. 17, to Yslip under the side curls to keep-them stiff, and forming a backing for the side curls in pushing them up against the gage plate. These blocks may be used in addition to the foot H.

I do not limit myself to any special form of trimming device, since by simple adaptation any of the well-known forms may be used. Vhere a reciprocating cutter is used, I prefer to make its cutting-edge of the gouge shape shown in Fig. 6, with its concave outline toward Ythe edge of the brim of the hat, andY when in its lowest position entering a suitable opening in the foot H. Vith this, by `driving the cutter-arm B at high speed, I am able to make a clean smooth cut on the inner edge of the curl, notwithstanding the cutting is on the inner arc of a circle and notwithstanding the movement of the hat is toward and from the cutter in passing the quarters from the sides to the brows. If a straightedge cutter were used, it would give a hacked edge to the curl at those points, while the rounded form of Ycutter makes a clean cut.

For convenience I make the gouge-shaped cutter of a hollow steel tube, and grind it away at the point, as shown in Fig. 6; and as a convenient method of securing the cutter in its holder B, I bore a hole in the outer end of the latter, split it, and by means of a setscrew draw the jaws thus formed together to 3, to keep the brim of the hat up- IIO grasp the cutter, Fig. 6. A straight-edged cutter may be used, however, provided it is constructed so as to turn in its holder or bearing, in order to change the direction of the line of cut, as illustrated in the modification, Figs. 10 and 11, in which the stem b of the cutter is adapted to a bearing in the end of the carrying-arm, and is provided with a handle, b2, by which theline of cut maybe changed. In this modification the arm which carries the cutter may be either st-ationary or have a reciprocating movement imparted Vto it.

The trimmer B, instead of having a sharp cutting-edge, may have a rounded comparatively blunt one, as in the modification, Fig. 12, and a feed, p, may be added to move the Work along. Rotary movement may be imparted to this trimmer through any suitable gearmin this instance through the bevelwheels 1, 2, 8, and 4 from a belt-pulley, 5.

A trimmer of the construction described, in order to make a clean cut at the quarters in passing from the sides to the brows, should be free to have its line of movement changed. For this purpose the portion A2 of the frame which carries the cutter and its intermediate gear-wheels isswiveled at t to the fixed portion of the frame Af perpendicularly above the contact-point of the trimmer, as shown, so that it may be freely turned to change the line of cut without interfering with the driving of the cutter. The bearing 6 for the trimmer end of the cutter-shaft 7 may be adjusted with reference to the foot lH by means of a milled nut, 8, in a recess in the frame A2, and adapted to a threaded stem, 9, which carries the said bearing. In this modification the end of the guide-plate G is suitably shaped toleave free scope for the rotary trimmer B, which severs the felt on the desired line, either by the pressingor rolling action on the foot H, or, if ithas a sharp knife-edge, by cutting the same.

The driving-shaft of the machine may be placed at any convenient point on the frame. In the construction shown in Figs. 1 and 2 this shaft T is arranged horizontally at the lower part of the frame, and carries at one .end the fast and loose pulleys t t, and at the other end a belt or grooved pulley, S, whence motion is transmitted by a cord or belt passing over a pulley, d', to the eccentric or crank shaft D, for driving the reciprocating trimmer.

In general, the hat and hat-block are turned by the hand of the operator to trim the brimcurl, and as the cam E is cut to the proper pattern and moves in contact with the hat` carrier through the gearing it insures the trimming to the desired regular outline, as described above.

The power used to drive the cutting device may also be applied to impart the necessary trimming motion to the hat and cam-shaft. A means for carrying this into effect is illustrated inFig. 13, a worm-wheel, 10, being attached to the lower end of the cam-shaft E', 0r to the shaft I, and linto this gears a worm,

11, on a shaft which may be driven from the main shaft ofthe machine by a belt or gear.

Instead of varying the relative positions of the trimmer and gage to vary the depth of cut or width of curl trimmed by moving the gage, and with it the hat, toward or from the trimmer, the same result may be accomplished by moving the trimmer toward and from a fixed gage, as in the construction shown in Fig. 15. In this case the cutter-carrier B', instead of being pivoted to the head of the frame, is pivoted to the upper end of the arm F, the position of which is controlled by the pattern-cam Ein thev same way as the arm F is controlled in the construction shown in Fig. 3, as will be readily understood without further description. In this case the gage F is stationary, but adjustable, as in the other constructions. I do not wish to confine myself to a machine in which the hat turns past a fixed cuttingpoint, as it will be obvious that the machine may be so constructed that the trimming devices may travel around the hat', which does not revolve. In the modification illustrated in Fig. 1S, for instance, I have shown a machine of such a construction. The tube J', in which is mounted the stem mof the hat-block, is in this case a fixed part of the frame, and on this, as a standard, is mounted the frame A3, which carries the cutting or trimming mechanism. The frame A has collars a a',adapted to turn on the tubular standard J, and to this is hinged at the lower end the swinging frame K2, carrying at its upper end the cutting or trimming devices, which may be similar to any of those described above. The shaft E of the cam E, which controls the relative positions of the cutter and gage, asin other cases, is adapted to bearings in the frame and is connected through a rod, J 2, and universal joints to a short shaft carrying a pinion, e2, gearing into a fixed pinion, 2, ou the tubular standard or frame. A spring,7r,may be used to tend to bring the arm KJ and its devices up to the hat-carrier. By traversing the frame A3, with its swinging frame K2, around the tubular standard by means of the handle a2 it will be readily understood from the foregoing description that in this case also the position of the hat with relation to the cutting-point will through the medium of the cam control the depth of cut, and so insurethe trimming ofthe curl of the hat to the desired outline. In this case also the hat is so mounted that it can have a IVO IIO

tipping or tilting motion in the direction ofits i length, to accommodate t-he curve of the sides Y it serves for sharpening the cutter is alsouseful as a handle to impart any necessary slight movement to the trimming devices When the machine is out of operation.

I claim as my invention- 1. For trimming the brims of hat-curls after they have been shaped and set and While they remain so,an organized machine, substantially as described, in which the position of the outer edge of the hat in relation to the trimming devices automatically determines the distance of the line of trimming from the edge of the hat.

2. For the trimming of hat-brim curls after they have been set and While" they remain so, an organized machine, substantially as described,in which a tipping motion is imparted to the hat in the direct-ion of its length during the trimming operation, and in which the position of the outer edge of the hat in relation to the trimming devices automatically determines the distance ofthe line of trimming from the edge of the hat.

3. An organized machine for trimming the curls of hat-brims to any desired outline after they have been shaped and set and While they remain so, substantially as specified.

4. An organized machine for trimming the curls of hat-brims which have been shaped and set to a regular outline, the said machine having a trimmer and gage and a hat-support controlling the relation of the gage and trimmer to regulate the line of cut, substantially as described.

5. An organized machine for trimming the curls of hat-brims which have been shaped and set to a regular outline, the said machine having a trimmer and gage and a rotary hatsupport controlling in its movement the relation of the gage and trimmer to regulate t-he line of cut, substantially as described.

6. An organized machine for trimming the curls of hat-brims Which have been shaped and set to a regular outline, said machine having a trimmer and gage, a cam to vary the depth of cut, and a hat-support with which the cam is adapted to move in concert, substantially as set forth.

7. In a machine for trimming hat-brims after they have been set and shaped, the combination of a trimmer and a movable gage With a pattern-cam acting on said movable gage to vary the depth of eut, as described.

8. In a machine for trimming hat-brims after they have been set and shaped, the combination of a trimmer, a movable gage, and

a pattern-cam to act on said gage to vary the depth of cut With a hat-support with which the cam is adapted to move in concert, substantially as described.

9. In a machine for trimming the brims of hats which have been shaped and set, the combination of a trimmer and hat-support With amovable gage for the outer edge of the hat, controlled in relation to the cutter by the position of the hat in passing the cutter. substantially as speciied.

10. In an organized machine for trimming the brims of hats which have been shaped and set, the combination of a trimmer and gage with a hat-support free to tip or tilt the hat in the direction of its length, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

11. In a machine for trimming the brims of hats Which have been shaped and set, the combination of a fixed frame and a trimmer and gage thereon with a swinging frame carrying a hat-support, substantially as set forth.

12. In a machine for trimming the brims of hats Which have been shaped and set, the combination of a xed frame, a trimmer and gage, and a cam acting on said gage to regulate the depth of cut, With a movable frame carrying the hat-support and having its line of movement in the same plane with that of the gage, substantially as specified.

18; In a machine for trimming the brims of hats which have been shaped and set, the combination of a fixed frame, a trimmer and gage, and a movable support for said trimmer with a cam controlling the position of the latter, and a hat-support controlling said cam, substantially as described.

14.. In a machine for trimming the brims of hats which have been shaped and set, the combination of a fixed frame, atrimmer and gage With a movable frame, and a hat-support vertically adjustable therein, substantially as set forth.

15. In a machine for trimming the brims ot hats which have been shaped and set, the combination of a movable hat-support, trimmer, and gage with a cam controlling the depth of cut, and adjustable'with reference to the device acted on to alter the cut, substantially as specified. A

16. In a machine for trimming the brims ot hats which have been shaped and set, the combination of a. movable hat-support and cam controlled thereby with a trimmer and gage, and a pivoted arm carrying said gage or trimmer, the cam being adjustable toward and hats, the combination of a frame, a trimmer,

and supporting-foot for the latter with a gage and a controlling-cam,and aguide-plate which also serves to keep the curl of the brim on the support, substantially as specified.

20. In a machine for trimming the brims ot hats, the combination of a trimmer, a hatsupport, and gage with an arm carrying said gage or trimmer, a pattern-cam controlling the IOO arm, and a retraetor to keep the arm upto the cam, substantially as set forth.

21. In 'a machine for trimming the brims of hats, the combination of a gage with a reciprocating gouge-shaped cutter, and a support for the cutter to act against, substantially as described.

22. The gouge-shaped cutter made of a tube, substantially as set forth.

23. The combination of the frame, a gage, and cutter with a supporting-finger secured to the frame, and having its toe projecting sidewise, substantially as and for the purpose described.

24. In a m'achine for trimming the brims of hats, the combination of the frame,a trimmer, and gage with a shaft, D, for transmitting motion to the cutter, and having at one end an operatingwheel and at the other a grindingwheel, substantially as and for the purpose described.

25. In a machine for trimming the brims of hats which have been shaped and set, the combination of a trimmer and gage, and a cam controlling the depth of cut with a shaft carrying said cam, a hat-support in a movaable frame, a shaft, I, geared to the cam-shaft, and a universal joint connecting the hat-support with the shaft I, as set forth.

26. In a machine for trimming the brims of hats which have been shaped and set, the combination of a trimmer and gage, and a cam controlling the depth of cut with a shaft carrying said cam, and a hat-support in a movable frame and geared to the cam-shaft in the relation of two to one, as set forth.

27. The combination of the xed frame, trimmer, and gage, and cam controlling the depth of cut, and camshaft with a supportingframe pivoted to the fixed frame, gearing and shafting to transmit the motion of the hat-support to the cam-shaft, and a universal joint at the pivoting-point of the movable frame, substantially as set forth.

28. rlhe combination of the fixed frame with the bifurcated hat-carrying frame K, shaft I, shaft J', connecting-rod J, and universal joints, substantially as described.

29. The combination of a trimmer and gage 'and a fixed frame carrying the same with a hat supporting frame pivoted to the fixed frame and carrying a counter-weight,substantially as specified.

30. The combination of a Xed frame carrying a trimmer and gage with a frame having a rotary sleeve or hollow shaft, a hat-block, and a stem adjustable in said sleeve, as and for the purpose set forth.

3l. The combination of the xed frame, trimmer, and gage with a movable frame, a vertically-adjustable stem therein, and a hatblock pivoted to the said stem so as to be free to have atilting motion thereon, substantially as specified.

82. lIhe combination of a trimmer and gage, and a cam for regulating the depth of cut with a hat-support geared to the said cam, and a driving-shaft imparting motion to the cutter and to the hat and cam, substantially as described.

33. The hat-brim support for trimming consisting of a pair of blocks for the side curls and a spring-yoke, substantially as set forth.

34. In a machine for trimming the brims of hats, the combination of a hat-block, gage, and finger with a cutter-arm, and a cutter free to be turned in said arm to vary the line of cut, as set forth.

35. -In a machine for trimming the brims of hats, the combination of a hat-support and gage with a swiveled frame carrying a rotary trimmer, and a foot to cut against,substantially as set forth.

36. In a machine for trimming the brims of hats, constructed substantially as described, a rotary cutter, substantially as set forth.

37. In a machine for trimming the brims of hats, constructed substantially as described, a rotary trimmer arranged to separate the material by pressure, substantially as set forth.

38. An organized machine for trimming to a desired outline the brim of a hat after it has been shaped and set, wherein the outer edge of the curl of said brim and the revolution of said hat on its center determine the line of trimming, substantially as described.

39. An organized machine for trimming the brim of a hat after it has been shaped and set, wherein the revolution of the hat around its center makes a corresponding adjustment of the relation of a gage and trimming device, substantially as described.

40. An organized machine for trimming the brim of ahat after it has been shaped and set, wherein said brim during the process of trimming may be revolved past a fixed cuttingpoint, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JOHN BIGELOVV.

Vitnesses: v

WILLIAM F. DiIvIs, HARRY SMITH.

IOO

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